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¶ 1 Leave a comment on paragraph 1 0 Oct 16 Geneva to Lake Maggiore 294
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villagers are lazily sauntering in the streets around the many little
stands supplied with Apples, Pears, Onions, and Chesnuts [sic] cold or roasted.
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We as yet see but little difference in dress except the hand-
Kerchiefs upon the womens heads, and the black hair and eyes.
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Their lingo sounds much like French when spoken rapidly-
but the Italian names assure us that we are in Italy. Via
viola, piazza, viacolo, portodella- +c with long additions in
vowel ending words stare us in the face at every turn.
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Breakfast at 9. off again a 9 3/4 out from under the
sheltering arcades of the Hotel court, clear and beautiful
not a cloud. The atmosphere seems entirely changed, having
the constant reflection of the Sun against this South side of the alps
None of us remember having felt such a balmy Italian atmosphere
before this, anywhere in Europe-
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The valley narrows up a little, but is still averaging nearly
half a mile, quite level, and frequently wet, indicating inun-
dations as the road is often elevated many feet, we are
constantly descending with the river but the grade is scarcely
perceptible. Beside us runs the fine grading and neatly
turned arches of an abandoned enterprise, the projected Simplon
railway. The road going over the St. Gotthard has killed it.
It was not popular with the valley peasants- Three days after
they had completed an iron railway bridge a lot of peasants
concentrated at night and disposed of it before daylight. Not a
single piece was ever found or the perpetrators convicted although
many were arrested on suspicion
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Constantly in sight of several little villages between these high
walls
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